Scandinavian Rullepolse or Ribberull – creating a delicious Scandinavian masterpiece

Knowing how to make rullepolse or ribberulle, the seasoned meat roll, is a fundamental element to have an authentic Scandinavian Christmas party, at least in our house. Once you can get the required lamb flank, the rest of the process can be a fun and family affair.

The first thing we have to do is bone the side of lamb and trim it. We like to do this ourselves, as it is important not to cut through the “blade”, which is the skin-like membrane that covers the surface of the meat. If there are holes or cuts in the drop, the ingredients inside will come out. Don’t worry too much, as we can sew the holes if necessary, but it’s best to keep the drape intact. In addition, the drop provides a good anchor to which we sew the carcass. All the ribs are removed along with the excess fat. We then trim the edges to “square” the meat into what looks like a rectangular sheet of meat and fat, thus becoming the wrapper for the ribberull.

I know this sounds like a lot of work, but I think the origins are due to the fact that in the “old days” no part of a slaughtered animal was wasted. Making ribberull was a way to take an undesirable part of the lamb and transform it into something delicious.

Now comes the assembly process. We buy the cheapest cut of pork we can find, usually a pork butt. Cut it into thin slices, trying to remove as much of the excess fat as possible. There is already enough fat in the lamb skirt, plus we don’t want to cover up any of the lamb flavor obtained from the extracted lamb fat. Then cut several onions into thin slices. Have plenty of salt and pepper available. The last thing you will need is an upholstery needle, or any needle with a large eye, and a simple cotton thread.

We always sit at the kitchen table to do this as it takes some time to put together. Spread the lamb skirt in front of you and proceed to season the lamb. You will have to put a lot of salt and pepper, much more than you think. There is no recipe, it is just something you learn from experience. The reason for this is that the ribberull must be boiled for several hours, so much of the salt is cooked. Otherwise, the resulting product is too smooth. This is the topic of conversation every year as the new batch of ribberull is carefully evaluated by trained family palates. This evaluation process is important as we try to remember for next year if seasoning levels need to be adjusted.

Now put onions and pork on top of this, then more salt and pepper. Then more onions and pork, and more salt and pepper. Usually two coats are all you need. The point is to get as much of the stuffing as possible inside the lamb tripe, so you may need to add more or take something out if necessary.

Now comes the fun part. You have to “roll” this sheet of lamb, pork and onions, until the two ends meet, overlapping a little. Next, take the needle and thread, and proceed to sew the ribberulls together, while manipulating the fillings to prevent them from falling out. Your goal is to sew the side of lamb into what looks like a fluffy sausage, leaving no gaps or holes for the filling to escape. This is difficult to describe in writing and is best seen in person.

She then wraps the ribberull in a couple of layers of cheesecloth, and then tightly wraps it with string, wrapping the entire surface several times. The cheesecloth and string work to hold the ribberull together as it has a tendency to fall apart during the cooking process. We put them in the fridge for a day or two, as this cures it a bit and lets the flavors melt. Boil for several hours, until tender with a fork. The wonderful smell of the house is unlike any other, a true sign that Christmas is near.

The process is not complete. After the ribberull is done, remove it from the water and then flatten it to about an inch or so deep. We use what we call a ruler press that consists of two boards with long bolts in each of the four corners. The boards are slowly joined together by screwing a wing nut onto each bolt. You open the press, placing the cooked ribberull between the two boards, then proceed to join the two boards until they reach the desired thickness. At this point, you refrigerate it until cool. Take it out of the press and carefully remove the cheesecloth and string. Be careful not to break the ribberull, as the thread used to sew it is often embedded in the ribberull itself.

Finally !! Are you ready! The resulting product is a flat and somewhat elongated piece of meat. We cut it into slices about 1/4 inch thick. You cannot cut it too thin as it tends to fall apart easily. We use it as a lunch box, making the perfect sandwich. No add-ons, other than maybe a little butter. You don’t want any seasonings to detract from the sumptuous flavor. Scandinavian or not, try this wonderful dish at least once in your life!

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